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Ignition Switch Internal connection logic
Posted by spit7475
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Ignition Switch Internal connection logic #1 | |
spit7475 Jim K ON, Canada Sign in to contact | Topic Creator (OP) Jun 16, 2024 09:23 PM Joined 12 years ago 183 Posts |
I've got a couple of spare ignition switches which are similar but different.
I wanted to meter out the terminal connections in the 0, I, II, III positions but it appears that there are bad connections inside the switches.
Does anyone have a logic diagram for the four position of the switch? Not able to find a diagram on the web, for the attached switches.
The pictures attached with the ignition switch are labeled as per the standard wire diagrams.
I want to be able to understand how I could use a temporary fused jumper to bypass the switch, if the switch failed during a drive,
I'm running a 1.5 ohm coil with a ballast, so if I connected 12V to the 1.5 ohm coil, it may cook by the time I get home.
Btw, the switch in my car does not activate the starter, so a while back I installed a button to supply power to the starter relay.
It works and others who do not know where the switch is cannot start car.
There should be a way of bypassing the ignition switch completely until proper repairs can be made.
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6 wire ignition switch1.jpg 55.8 KB
6 wire ignition switch2.jpg 32.1 KB
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4 wire ignition switch.jpg 49.3 KB
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Re: Ignition Switch Internal connection logic #2 | |
spitfire50 Paul Mugford Rochester, N.H., USA Sign in to contact 1966 Triumph Spitfire MkII | Jun 17, 2024 05:39 AM Top Contributor Joined 13 years ago 19,995 Posts |
Jim,
The brown wire(s) is the supply from the battery. It is always hot.
The wire to the Anti-run-on solenoid is the only one connected to the brown supply wire when the switch is in the 0 or off position. I becomes disconnected when the switch is moved from that position.
In position 1 or ACC the white/pink is the only wire supplied by the switch.
Position 2 or RUN has the white wires and the pink/white wire connected.
In position 3 or CRANK the pink/white wire is disconnected and the white/ red wire is connected The white/red wire sends power to the smith's module which will crank the engine if the other requirements are met.
The white wires remain connected (to the brown) when the switch is in position 3.
All the best,
Paul
TRF# 10423
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Re: Ignition Switch Internal connection logic #3 | |
Yellowhawk Valley Dan A Walla Walla, WA, USA Sign in to contact 1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla" | Jun 17, 2024 08:39 PM Top Contributor Joined 12 years ago 14,915 Posts |
Jim:
Not sure if any of these will match your samples but it is all I have, from another Spitfire lover.
da
Dan Ayco*ck
Walla Walla, Wa.
Yellowhawk Valley Spitfires
69, 69, 72, 75, 78, 79 Spitfires
TRF# 006047
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ignition sw diagarams.jpg 32.7 KB
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Re: Ignition Switch Internal connection logic #4 | |
tirebiter Jeff Garber Southeastern, MA, USA Sign in to contact 1973 Triumph TR6 | Jun 18, 2024 02:40 AM Joined 16 years ago 13,306 Posts |
In reply to # 2049802 by spit7475 I want to be able to understand how I could use a temporary fused jumper to bypass the switch, if the switch failed during a drive,
I'm running a 1.5 ohm coil with a ballast, so if I connected 12V to the 1.5 ohm coil, it may cook by the time I get home.
From the driver's seat ...
With both switches you show you should be able to power the coil for running by connecting the jumper between 3-white to top fuse 20A to resistor wire and 2-brown direct to battery.
For starting connect a second jumper to the 2-brown direct to battery and touch the other end of the second jumper to the 1-red/white wire
Alternatively from under the hood ...
For powering the coil connect the jumper between the top fuse and the positive terminal of the battery.
For starting connect a second jumper to the battery positive terminal and touch the other end of the jumper to the small terminal on the solenoid the red/white wire is on.
Either way you bypass the switch (from the driver's seat or under the hood) disconnect the second jumper from the brown wire/battery once the engine starts.
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